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ADKers Climb Kilimanjaro and Safari in Tanzania

When seven members of the Adirondack Mountain Club set off to climb Mount Kilimanjaro they were inspired by the idea of reaching the infamous glaciers and the mountain’s 19,340 foot summit. The group aimed for the top, but was well aware that out of the 26,000 people that hike the mountain each year, only 40% reach the summit.

Mount Kilimanjaro is the tallest freestanding mountain in the world and dominates its landscape unlike any other mountain. Located in Tanzania, East Africa, this extinct volcano looms over vast plains and large game reserves and is certainly one of the world's most impressive sights. The terrain is nothing short of dramatic, ranging from low elevation rain forest to lava formations to high alpine glaciers on the summit.

Packing for the trip was tricky. While keeping our packs light, we had to be prepared for 90 degree weather in the low elevation forest and minus 30 degree temperatures on the barren summit. The three main messages before starting the hike: walk slowly; drink, drink, drink and eat well; and conserve energy.

Our guides and porters were mostly members of the Chagga tribe, one of Tanzania’s largest ethnic groups. Mount Kilimanjaro is home to the Chagga people. While their traditional way of life has long been depleted by western culture, they are a proud group that remains united in their heritage. Mount Kilimanjaro is central to the Chagga’s life providing jobs and fertile soil.

The hike started at 7,000 feet in the low elevation, moist forest. The diversity of trees and plants was stunning. Walking along a well laid trail through the thick, wild, tangled forest gave us great respect for the early explorers who navigated their way through this terrain in the 1800’s. For the next eight days we traveled up the southwest side of the mountain through one of the collapsed volcanoes—the Shira Plateau. From here we met up with the South Circuit trail, which winds its way underneath the south side of the massive crater summit, and continued to the east side of the summit where we ascended our final 4,000 feet to Uhuru Peak, which means freedom in Swahili and is the highest point on the African continent.

During the hike we traveled through four distinct ecological zones: forest zone; heath and moorland zone; alpine desert; and ice cap. Each day unveiled new landscapes and it seemed that every corner we turned or pass we climbed led to a new environment. The diversity was tremendous: lava rocks, lush forest, scree slopes, glaciers, streams, tree ferns, old man’s moss, wild looking trees, and massive lava domes.

Hiking with our guides and porters we learned about their way of life and interaction with the natural world. It was fun testing our Swahili and observing how expeditions were conducted on this mountain—quite different than the low-impact model most of us are used to. It was astonishing to see the porters scale steep rocks at a rapid pace and balance 50 pounds on their heads, with bags, lanterns or other camp gear in their hands. These men work incredibly hard for a small wage that is considered high in a country with an annual average income of only $540.

Two words we learned very well on Kilimanjaro were “Pole Pole” (Swahili for slowly, slowly). This is the mantra for any high elevation mountain. Even though we walked slowly, drank copious amounts of water, ate incredibly well, the altitude still took its toll. Most everyone experienced some form of acute mountain sickness, resulting in blasting headaches, nausea and other altitude associated ailments.

We arrived at our final camp, 15,000 feet, in the late morning after a tremendous walk through alpine desert at our feet and looming glaciers above our heads. Our camp was nestled in awkward spots between volcanic rocks, perched on an old lava flow. At 12:00 am that night we set off bundled in all of our clothes for our final summit approach.

Kilimanjaro is many things, but one thing it is not is a wilderness experience. While we enjoyed a few days of relative solitude in the beginning of our trip, the camp sites and certain parts of the remaining hike were very crowded. This was no different on the night of the summit. The stars were brilliant and full moon shining as we joined the line of approximately 250 hikers—yes, 250 hikers—heading up the summit. A snaking line of headlamps moved slowly—really slowly—up the final rocky and windswept approach.

Rick Ridgeway, alpinist and author of In the Shadows of Kilimanjaro describes the final approach quite well, “Lift one foot and then the other, just enough to place it higher; don’t use any more energy than you need to and breath deeply between each move. Rhythm and pacing is everything. And when you are in it your thoughts go and it is dreamlike, but you are still here in the moment. The cone beam of light coming from your forehead tying you through the blackness to the lava slope of this mountain that in your mind you see rising to a rare glacial height above the acacia studded plain of Africa.”

It was a cold, windy evening. After seven hours of steady, slow hiking we reached the rim of the crater as the sun was rising. The glaciers were magnificent in their grandeur and the sun light turned the ice a brilliant shade of orange. It is hard to believe that if the scientific community is correct, these ice walls will be gone by 2020. We gazed over the clouds and vast plains, took the obligatory photo by the summit sign, and began our descent in the hopes of leaving our headaches behind in the thin air.

The key to a successful trip on Kilimanjaro—take your time, spend as many days on the mountain as possible, travel the least popular route in order to avoid the hoards of people, travel with a small group, and lastly and most importantly, enjoy each day. The summit of Kilimanjaro was tremendous; however, our group’s success was due to our enjoyment of each moment. Every day on the mountain is an adventure through tremendous natural beauty. With each step there are new discoveries, landscapes and challenges.

Following the trek, participants quickly traded in their hiking boots for sandals and their hiking poles for binoculars and set off on safari with Dorobo Safari Company. Dorobo is run by the three Peterson brothers, who grew up in Tanzania. Dorobo has a reputation for taking people off the beaten path, treading lightly, and incorporating hiking, ecology and culture into their trips. They have a deep commitment to conservation and communities.

Mike Peterson, our lead guide, Dorobo Safari Company, with elephant bones.

Taking off from Arusha in three land rovers, our first stop was Lake Manyara National Park where the group was quickly blown away by the sighting of lions, baboons, hippos and more. Seeing these magnificent creatures in their nature landscape is riveting. Staring at the golden eye of a lion is magical and watching a herd of elephants is astounding.

We left Manyara and traveled northwest towards the crater highlands, a string of inactive volcanoes including Ngorongoro Crater—the world’s largest, unbroken crater and home to most of northern Tanzania’s animals. We arrived at the Crater Lodge, which rests on the edge of Ngorongoro Crater just as the sun was setting. Standing on the porch in the warm evening air as the sun cast a glow on the 20km wide crater, AKDers were in awe and some moved to tears with the magnificent beauty laid out before them.

We spent the following day in the crater, watching a pride of fifteen lions, seeing one of the endangered black rhinos, and observing zebras, cheetah, wildebeest, and a plethora of other animals. A day in Ngorongoro Crater leaves no questions as to why it is a World Heritage Site.

From the crater highlands, we traveled northwest through Maasai Country towards the Serengeti Park. The Maasai are a tribe of pastoralists who live throughout northern Tanzania. They are probably the most well known of all the African tribes to Americans. They are tall, lean, cloaked in bright red robes and seen in photographs carrying a tall spear. Our two guides, Simon and Winston, are Maasai. Author Bill Eddy wrote in The Other Side of the World, “There is something about the Maasai, that for us, links them to the timeless natural world of Africa.”

In the middle of Maasai country is Olduvai Gorge, the archaeological site renowned for the Leakey's famed discovery of the hominid that dates back 1.8 million years. Here the group visited the museum and got a flavor of the ancient history known only to Africa. What a privilege to stand in a place where they discovered the origin of man and the massive mammals that once roamed this earth.

A highlight for many in the group was our time at Soit Orgoss, an area on the north eastern boundary of the Serengeti National Park. This is land that Dorobo leases from the Maasai. We camped here for two days with some local Maasai and a member of the Dorobo tribe—a dwindling tribe of hunter/gatherers. Our camp was tucked in the famous Serengeti Kopje rocks and overlooked the Park—the view over the vast plains as far as the eye could see was spectacular. Yet another magnificent place to hike and explore, and in the evenings, dinner around the campfire, under the Southern Cross was a great way to end the day. While one of my favorite sightings was the bush baby—a small primate with big eyes that leaps from tree limb to tree limb, the favorite sighting for many in the group was the leopard that was seen with her two cubs at night on top of a rock outcrop.

Most people visiting Tanzania do not have an opportunity to interact with the local people like we did—thanks to Dorobo. One day in particular stands out for many. Leaving Soit Orgoss, we dropped off Kipon, one of the Maasai men who camped with us, at his home. We were welcomed into Kipon’s village and as if an announcement was made through the wind, other Maasai from surrounding villages quickly appeared to see the tourists.

Maasai Warriors

The Maasai huts and bomas, enclosures where they kept their cattle, blend into the landscape and are made of sticks, dung and mud. The children make toys out of natural materials and all their belongings could be stored in one of our small day packs. Like the mammals with which they share their landscape, the Maasai use only what they need. Arriving at this simple village in the landrover filled with all of our stuff emphasized the different world in which we live. Author Bill Eddy wrote, “Sometimes I think the only way we must grow aware of our environment is from the very context of a different one. It is almost as though we cannot see except in differences.” The differences here were blatant and it prompted many in the group to reflect on our culture, habits and way of life.

By visiting Africa or other far away places, the visitor takes on the responsibility to share the stories of these distant landscapes and people, and to challenge our culture to question the path we walk and its impact on others.

Few places on Earth compare to the vast landscapes and teaming wildlife of East Africa. Isak Dineson, author of Out of Africa, said “What business had I to set my heart on Africa?” Everyone that leaves Africa has in one way or another set their heart on this complex continent.

Participants were able to learn about the communities of people living in and around these wild places and observe how their lives are impacted by conservation areas. ADKers returned to the United States with new perspectives and ideas, which some may use to advance conservation efforts at home or in places far away geographically, but now close to their hearts.